Meldung vom 09.09.2025
The world of wine is struggling with declining consumption, changing drinking habits, and new demands. After 20 years of experience in China and as a 15th-generation winemaker, Lenz Moser takes stock: Where is Austria a role model – and where does China show what the future could look like?
Quality vs. Scale
“One thing is certain and remains unshakable – the quality of Austrian wines at all levels is sensational,” says Lenz Moser. Whether red, white, rosé, sweet, orange, or natural – Austria consistently produces at a high level. “There are no bad wines anymore, not even at discount stores. The offering is impeccable – and at prices that are unrivaled internationally.” This price-to-quality ratio is considered by many experts as Austria’s real trump card.
China, meanwhile, scores with size and clout. Changyu, the country’s largest wine producer, shapes the market with eight châteaux and a clear strategic focus. From there, trends are set that reach far beyond the country’s borders. “This big thinking, shaping the market from a position of strength – we don’t really have that in Austria,” Moser emphasizes. “It shows how much can be achieved when size and vision come together.”
Organic Pioneer vs. Business Sense
Austria is the world leader in organic viticulture: 25% of its vineyards are already certified organic. This primarily appeals to the younger generation, who value authenticity, sustainability, and craftsmanship. “For many young people, organic is no longer a niche topic but a given,” Moser explains. Austria benefits twice: from a positive image and from consumers consciously choosing quality.
China, on the other hand, demonstrates impressively how important clear business sense is. Moser recalls: “When we began producing great wines in Ningxia in 2015, I wanted to launch immediately in the domestic market. But our chairman, Mr. Zhou, insisted: first succeed internationally, then move into China. He was right – today, Changyu Moser XV is the market leader in China.” This clear strategic line – building global credibility first, then conquering the home market – is typical of China and an example Europe could learn from.
Young Winemakers vs. Long-Term Visions
In Austria, a new generation is emerging to shape viticulture: young, internationally trained, articulate, and close to the consumer. They experiment with styles, listen to trends, and dare to innovate. “One example is Laurenz Heinrich in Gols, who deliberately targets younger consumers,” says Moser. “Because Baby Boomers are drinking less, and the younger generation is growing only half as strongly – we must win back new target groups.” This sensitivity to the next generation could become Austria’s greatest strength.
China, however, impresses with long-term visions. Ten years ago, Changyu began in Ningxia with the clear goal of achieving international success. Today, the wines of Changyu Moser XV are among the world’s best – a development few would have thought possible back then. This is complemented by brands such as Koya, China’s number one brandy, which beats Cognac in blind tastings, or Icewine, which was strategically positioned as a flagship product 25 years ago. This demonstrates how consistently China thinks not in years but in decades.
Small Structures vs. Consolidation
The Austrian market remains both fragmented and concentrated: two supermarket chains dominate around 70% of wine sales, alongside a small, fine specialist trade scene and around 50 top winemakers acting as a new spearhead. Imported wines have a share of at most 20%, with Italy alone accounting for 15%. The “New World” plays practically no role.
China takes the opposite path: consolidation and clear structures. Major players take responsibility, pool resources, and shape markets from the top down. Changyu is a role model here – a company that shapes the entire market from a position of strength. “That provides stability, clarity, and a clout we don’t know in Austria in this form,” says Moser.
Two Worlds – One Shared Goal
Austria convinces with quality, price competitiveness, organics, and a young winemaking generation. China impresses with size, consolidation, clear strategies, and long-term thinking. The markets could hardly be more different – and yet both face the same challenge: keeping wine attractive for future generations.
“The whole world is struggling with declining consumption,” Moser summarizes. “We need positive examples – of how it works, and sometimes of how it hasn’t worked. Austria and China are two completely different worlds – and precisely for that reason, they can learn so much from each other.”