“We Decided to Do Everything Differently”

Château Changyu Moser XV is the result of an extraordinary collaboration between China and Austria. More than 13 years after the opening of the winery that bears his name, Lenz Maria Moser reflects on a remarkable journey. On bold decisions, a white Cabernet Sauvignon, and the rise of Chinese wines to the top of the international wine world.

Vienna/Ningxia, November 2026. The international wine industry is undergoing a period of profound change. Red wines in particular are facing increasing pressure, consumer preferences are shifting, and traditional models of success can no longer be taken for granted. For Lenz Maria Moser, this is an opportunity to look back on the story of Château Changyu Moser XV in Ningxia — and on the decisions that enabled him and his Chinese partners to set new standards.

The Château, which bears Moser’s name, opened in 2013. Two years later, the Austrian winemaker and Changyu executives Chairman Zhou Hongjiang and CEO Sun Jian developed a new strategic vision: Chinese wines should earn their rightful place among the finest wines in the world.

“We had one major advantage at the time: we could practically start from scratch. We had a blank sheet of paper on which we could develop our own vision of great wines. How often do you get an opportunity like that in life?” Moser recalls.

What made the approach particularly unusual was the decision to establish international recognition first and then bring that success back to China.

“Our partners had a remarkably forward-thinking idea: we should first prove our quality on the international stage and then bring those achievements back to China. Looking back, it was a brilliant decision.”

Thinking Differently Instead of Copying Others

When Moser took on responsibility as Chief Winemaker and Strategist in 2015, he knew that achieving such ambitious goals would require fundamental changes.

“Looking back today, I have to admit that our wines at the time were simply too expensive for the international market, and the quality was not yet where it needed to be. We lacked a compelling story, a clear strategy, and a distinctive identity.”

Together with the Chinese team, he developed a new vision:

“We didn’t want to produce a copy of Bordeaux. Our goal was to create world-class wines from China with a character entirely their own. Wines that express their origin, combining beautiful fruit, elegance, and structure.”

To achieve this, the entire portfolio was restructured: from premium wines designed for by-the-glass service to the barrel-aged Moser Family wines and exclusive icon wines.

Today, these include “Purple Air Comes from the East” and “L12”, the winery’s flagship wine, known in the Chinese market as Longyu Estate. With approximately 130,000 bottles sold annually, L12 has become the most successful Chinese icon wine of all time.

Moser explains:

“From the very beginning, we wanted to compete on equal terms with the great names of the wine world — Bordeaux, California, and Tuscany. But not by imitating their wines. We wanted to demonstrate what Ningxia itself has to offer.”

A White Wine Made from Red Grapes

One of the most unconventional decisions was the creation of a white Cabernet Sauvignon — a Blanc de Noirs made from a grape variety known around the world primarily for producing red wines.

“At the time, around 90 percent of the wine consumed in China was red. Launching a white Cabernet Sauvignon seemed almost crazy to many people. But I was convinced that we had to surprise consumers with something completely new.”

The Château has been producing its White Cabernet since the 2016 vintage, later introducing a barrel-aged version.

Today, the winery is benefiting from a gradual shift in Chinese consumer preferences towards white wine.

“Sometimes you have to make decisions before the market even realizes that it is about to change. It was precisely this willingness to take risks that gave us a decisive head start.”

Great Wines Begin in the Vineyard

From the outset, Moser was convinced that international excellence could not be achieved in the cellar alone.

“My grandfather taught me that a vineyard must look healthy and well cared for if you want to make great wines from it. Every single vine matters. If the grapes aren’t right, you can’t work miracles in the cellar.”

In Ningxia, at an altitude of approximately 1,100 metres at the foot of the Helan Mountains, the dry desert climate, significant temperature differences, and exceptionally small Cabernet Sauvignon berries provide unique conditions for producing outstanding wines.

“From the very beginning, I fought to bring our vineyards to a new level of quality,” says Moser. “Changyu gave us tremendous support and even brought one of its best vineyard managers to Ningxia.”

Today, the Château has access to five vineyards in the surrounding area, some of which have already achieved organic certification.

The Moment China Became Proud of Its Own Wine

Moser experienced a defining moment in 2018 during a wine tasting in Fuzhou, in southern China, when he realized that the international strategy was truly working.

Following the presentation, an elderly gentleman stood up, visibly moved, and explained that throughout his adult life he had exclusively preferred Bordeaux and Australian red wines.

“He told me that from that day forward, he would proudly serve Chinese wines from Ningxia to his guests as well. Because he now knew that China was capable of producing world-class wines. Then he came over and hugged me. I will never forget that moment.”

It was only then, Moser says, that he fully understood the significance of his partners’ original strategy.

“I realized that this was about much more than exporting wine. It was also about giving Chinese people a sense of pride in their own wines.”

Two Worlds, One Shared Vision

Today, Moser sees the success of Château Changyu Moser XV above all as the result of an extraordinary partnership.

Chinese entrepreneurial spirit and economic strength came together with European winemaking tradition, international expertise, and an established global network.

“China is different. Incredibly dynamic, ambitious, and sometimes challenging. Anyone who wants to succeed there needs perseverance above all else. A great wine brand is not built overnight.”

Looking ahead, the mission remains clear: to further strengthen the distinctive identity of Ningxia wines and expand their position on the international stage.

At a time of major transformation in the global wine industry, Moser believes that the Château’s journey offers an important lesson.

“Back then, we didn’t simply try to become better at following the existing rules. We decided to do things differently — in the vineyard, in the cellar, in marketing, and in international distribution. And that is exactly what worked.”

He makes no secret of the fact that the journey has not always been easy. Nevertheless, his personal assessment is unequivocal:

“I love China and its people. China continues to inspire me every single day. Of course, things are not always easy. But I wouldn’t trade a single day of my more than 21 years working with and living in China.”